Sunday, April 4, 2010

Good Morgan Harbor Grill and Fishery

Good Morgan has been serving up fresh fish to the Chicago Jewish community from their location on Devon Avenue for at least a decade. And I can say that I've almost always enjoyed their food. So I was excited when I heard that they were opening a whole restaurant right next door, and for the most part, I wasn't disappointed. The food was pretty much what you'd expect from a place opened up by a fishmonger right next to his fish store. Which is to say, the main ingredient on the menu was fish. Though, it must be said that Good Morgan is the only fish store I've ever been to that never actually has any sort of oppressive fishy odor. I tried a little bit of sushi and the Fish and Chips. Both, I found to be delicious, though a bit excessive in the price department. Also, I thought that the concept of a nice fancy restaurant (with a polite and charming staff who does their best to get you to ignore the slowness of the kitchen) was somewhat ruined by the lack of its own entrance. In order to get to the dimly lit restaurant side, you actually have to enter through the fish store. I don't know whose idea that was, but I can't imagine that they can claim a full set of working brain cells.

In the end, despite the expense, slow kitchen, and odd entrance, the quality of Harbor Grill makes it a solid food choice, and earns it a 4/5.

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